[STRIPE OF CUT OPEN–WORK ON WHITE LINEN]

Single and Cut Open–work.

The above heading comprises every sort of needle–work, to which the drawing out of threads is a preliminary. By sewing over the single threads that remain, and drawing them together in different ways, an infinite variety of patterns can be produced. Many pretty combinations also, can be made of open–work, cross–stitch A kind of decorative needlework based on tiny crosses stacked in patterns., and other kinds of embroidery.

MATERIALS SUITABLE FOR OPEN–WORK

For all the coarser stuffs, such as Holbein–linen, Java and linen–canvas and the like, now in such favour for the imitation of old needlework, it will be best to use: Fil à pointer D.M.C, No. 30[A] and Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C, Nos. 10 to 20,[A] and for the finer stuffs, such as antique–linen and linen–gauze; Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 50 to 150,[A] Fil d'Alsace D.M.C, Nos. 20 to 100, and Fil à dentelle D.M.C, Nos. 25 to 80.

Coloured patterns can also be executed in open–work, with Coton à broder D.M.C Nos. 16 to 35, and Coton à repriser D.M.C, Nos. 25 to 50[A].

THE TWO DIFFERENT KINDS OF OPEN–WORK

The one is called, single open–work, the Italian Punto tirato, in which the first step is to draw out one layer of threads; the other, cut open–work, the Italian Punto tagliato, for which, both the warp, and the woof threads, have to be drawn out.

SINGLE OPEN–WORK (PUNTO TIRATO)

This, in its simplest form, is the ornamental latticed hem, in common use where something rather more decorative than an ordinary hem is required, and consists in drawing out one layer of threads, either the warp or the woof.

SINGLE HEM–STITCH

Draw out, according to the coarseness of the stuff, two or four threads, below the edge of the turning, and tack your hem down to the line thus drawn. Fasten your thread in to the left, and work your hem from right to left, taking up three or four cross–threads at a time, and inserting your needle, immediately above, into the folded hem, three or four threads from the edge, and then drawing it out.

[FIG. 55. SINGLE HEM–STITCH]

The same stitch is used for preventing the fringes, that serve as a finish to so many articles of house–linen, from ravelling.

SECOND HEM–STITCH

Prepare your hem as for fig. 55, and work from left to right; with this difference, that after drawing two or three cross–threads together, from right to left, you skip the same number of perpendicular threads you took up below, and insert your needle downwards from above, bringing it out at the bottom edge of the hem.

[FIG. 56. SECOND HEM–STITCH]

These stitches, which can be used for the right side also, form a kind of little tress, along the edge of the hem.

LADDER STITCH HEM

Complete the hem, as already directed in fig. 55, then draw out three or five threads more, turn the work round, and repeat the process, taking up the same clusters of threads which you took up in the first row of stitches, thus forming little perpendicular bars.

[FIG. 57. LADDER STITCH HEM]

DOUBLE HEM–STITCH

Begin as in fig. 55, forming your clusters of an even number of threads; and then, in making your second row of stitches, draw half the threads of one cluster, and half of the next together, thereby making them slant, first one way and then the other.

[FIG. 58. DOUBLE HEM–STITCH]

ANTIQUE HEM–STITCH

In the old, elaborate, linen needlework, we often meet two kinds of hem–stitchingAn "invisible" stitch that keeps raw hems from fraying. seldom found in modern books on needle–work. Figs. 59 to 62 are magnified representations of the same. At the necessary depth for forming a narrow hem, a thread is drawn, in the case of very fine textures where the edge is rolled, not laid; then fasten in the working thread at the left, and work the stitches from left to right. Passing your needle, from right to left, under three or four threads, draw the thread round the cluster and carry your needle on, through as many threads of the upper layer of stuff, as you took up below, so that the stitch may always emerge from the middle of the cluster.

[FIG. 59. ANTIQUE HEM–STITCH. WRONG SIDE]

[FIG. 60. ANTIQUE HEM–STITCH. RIGHT SIDE]

These show, the right and wrong sides of the hem; here the rolled hem is prepared as above, but the stitches are worked from right to left, and the thread is carried round the little roll, so that, as shown in fig. 62, it is visible on both sides of the hem. The needle does not enter the stuff, but is carried back at once, from the outside, and put in again between two clusters of threads.

[FIG. 61. ANTIQUE HEM–STITCH. WRONG SIDE]

[FIG. 62. ANTIQUE HEM–STITCH. RIGHT SIDE]

SLANTING HEM–STITCH

Bring out your needle and thread, two or three threads above the edge of the turning, between the first and second of the three cross–threads that compose the cluster, and then slip it under the cluster, from right to left. The loop must lie in front of the needle. When you have drawn up the stitch, put the needle in, one thread further on, and take up two threads. Fig. 64 shows the stitch on the right side.

[FIG. 63. SLANTING HEM–STITCH. WRONG SIDE]

[FIG. 64. SLANTING HEM–STITCH. RIGHT SIDE]

DOUBLE–ROWED ORNAMENTAL SEAM

Begin with any one of the hems already described, then counting as many threads downwards, as are clustered together in the first row, draw out a second thread, and cluster the perpendicular threads in this second line together, as shown in figs. 65 and 66. On the right side the stitch is straight (fig. 67). Coloured cottons should be used for all the above patterns of hem–stitchingAn "invisible" stitch that keeps raw hems from fraying., when they are to be introduced into coloured embroideries.

[FIG. 65. DOUBLE–ROWED ORNAMENTAL SEAM. WRONG SIDE]

[FIG. 66. DOUBLE–ROWED ORNAMENTAL SEAM. WRONG SIDE]

[FIG. 67. DOUBLE–ROWED ORNAMENTAL SEAM. RIGHT SIDE]

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